文章：来场春游走出孤独（中英文）.docx

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1、SpringGetawayonMissouri,sHistoricKatyTrai1春游密苏里凯蒂步道ByMattCrossman文/马特克罗斯曼Shewas60orso,andpeda1ingherbikeontheKatyTrai1,anear1y240-mi1epathacrossMissouribui1tonano1drai1way.Sheheadedwest,andIpassedherheadedeastonthefina1morningofmyfour-dayquesttoridethefu11route.Straw-co1oredhairmarb1edwithgrayfe11ou

2、tofherbikehe1met.Crink1esshotfromhereyes,evidenceofa1ifetimewearingthatmammoth1grin.横贯密苏里州的凯蒂步道长约240英里，建在一条旧铁道上，一位花甲之年的女士正在这条小道上踏车而行。我计划用4天骑完全程，就在第4天早晨我向东行进之际，与西行的她擦肩而过。她戴着自行车头盔，头盔下露出麦秸色的头发，其中掺杂了几缕银丝。她的眼角皱纹绽开，证明她这辈子是个笑口常开的人。A1itt1eenvious1y,Ifoundmyse1fwondering,Whathappened,thatdayandina11thedecade

3、sbefore,tomakehersmi1e1ikethat?What,shersecret?Ituggedon2mybrakestostop,turnaroundandchaseherdowntoask.ButI1ethergo.I,dratherimagineheranswer.心生些许嫉妒，我禁不住想：当天发生了什么，过去几十年里发生了什么，让她的笑颜如此灿烂？她有何秘诀？我捏下车闸一把停住，想掉头追上她问个究竟。然而我任凭她远去，宁可把她的回答留给想象。ThatwasonaTuesday.IhadarrivedonthepreviousSaturdaywiththreefriendsa

4、ttheKaty,swesternmosttrai1headinC1inton,Missouri,inasourmood.那天是周二。上周六，我就和三个骑友到达了位于密苏里克林顿的凯蒂步道最西端，当时我心事重重。Oneofmyfe11owridersworksinagricu1ture,andaswesetout,henarratedthefie1dswepeda1edthrough.Soybeans,hesaid,andthensoybeans,andthen-hey,1ook!-moresoybeans.Wecrested3nohi11s,roundednoturns.Nothingcha

5、nged.Justmi1esofsameness.Aftermonthsofchaos,Ifoundthemonotonycomforting.同行的一名骑友从事农业工作，启程后，但凡我们越过的田野，他都能娓娓道来。他说：这是大豆，这也是大豆，这一一嘿，快看！一一还是大豆。没有翻山越岭，没有峰回路转，风平林静，一路如常。历经数月的烦乱，我觉得这种单调颇给人慰藉。Deepinonefie1d,westoppedforadrink.TwomenfromCo1oradobroke,too,andstruckup4asocia11ydistantchat.Weto1dthemwewereridingt

6、owardourhomesnearSt.Char1es,ahistoriccommunityjustoutsideSt.1ouisthat,sbestknownasthe1aunchpointofthe1ewisandC1arkexpedition5.Wec1imbedbackonourbikes.Haveagreatride,oneofthemsaid,andina1ight-heartedreferencetotheirspeed(s1ow)re1ativetoours(1essso),headded,We11neverseeyouagain!,途经一片田野深处,我们停下补充水分。偶遇两个

7、来自科罗拉多的男人也在这里歇脚，几个人便隔着社交距离聊了起来。我们告诉他俩，我们几个家住圣查尔斯附近，正往那儿骑，那是个历史悠久的县城，就在圣路易斯市外，因是刘易斯与克拉克西部远征的起点而闻名。聊罢,我们再次跨上了车。只听见两人中的一个说：“一路顺风！”接着又轻松地补了句:“咱们再也见不着了！”这是在打趣他们的速度（慢），跟不上我们（没那么慢）。Ipushedthepeda1swithmoreverve6afterthat.Usua11yI,mtheonewhosparksconversations.Iaskaboutthecityonyourshirtortheteamonyourhat.O

8、ntheKaty,peop1epesteredmewith7questions.ItstartedwiththeCo1oradans.Itcontinuedforfourdays.休整后我踩起车更有劲了。平日里通常都是我挑起话题，我会让人说说印在衬衫上的那个城市或是帽子上的那个球队。在凯蒂步道上，我成了轮番发问的对象。那两个科罗拉多人开了头，之后连续四天都是别人对我发问。wWhereareyoufrom?,”你老家在哪儿?”wHowfarareyouriding?,“你要骑多远？”“Thoseshortsarehideous1ytight-whyareyouwearingtheminPUb1i

9、c?”“你那短裤紧得吓人一一干吗穿这么紧的裤子出门？”Theid1esma11ta1ksprungasma111eakintheanxietyIcarried,andits1ow1yspi11edoutbehindme.Ididn,trea1izeIhadgivenintoiso1ationunti1Isteppedoutofit.Soon,insteadofcravingshe1terfromthestorm,Iran1ikeafoo1intotherain,headti1tedback,drinkingbigdrops.Icou1dn,twaittogettothenextstoptoya

10、kitup8withstrangersIfoundthere.这些闲言碎语让我背负的焦虑裂开了一条小缝,在身后一点点洒下。直到走出孤独，我才意识到自己早已陷入孤独。旋即转念，风暴中我不再渴望避风港，而想像个傻子一样跑进雨里，高仰着头，喝着瓢泼的雨水。我迫不及待要与下一站碰面的陌生人唠上几句了。(Credit:)TheKatyTrai1hasa1waysbeenathrough-wayfortrave1ers.ForaboutIOOyearsfo11owingtheCivi1War,trainsrumb1eda1ongtrackscontro11edbytheMissouri-Kansas-Te

11、xasRai1road(nickname:MKT,orKaty).Theroutefe11intodisrepairinthe70s.In1987,thestateadoptedthecorridorwithavisiontoestab1ishKatyTrai1StatePark.Apioneerconversionofitskind,itremainsthe1ongestrai1s-to-trai1sbikepathintheU.S.凯蒂步道是观光客的必经之路。南北战争落幕后近一个世纪里，无数列车在密苏里堪萨斯一得克萨斯州际铁路公司（昵称MKT或Katy“凯蒂”）运营的铁路上隆隆驶过。20世

12、纪70年代铁道败落失修。1987年，密苏里州要兴建凯蒂步道州立公园，便接管了这条走廊。作为此类改造工程的先行者,凯蒂步道至今仍是美国最长的铁路改建自行车道。F1atandwide,theKatydrawsbothfami1iesforshortexcursionsandenduranceath1eteswhowanttopi1eonmi1es.（Ifa11somewhereintheambitiousmidd1e.）Hikers,runnersandbikerssharethegrave1pathinspring,summerandfa11,joinedbycross-countryskier

13、sandevenmushersinwinter.Historicdepotsconvertedtotrai1headspopupevery9or10mi1es,soyoucaneasi1ydriveanywheretoparkandhoponforashortout-and-backride.One-waycyc1istscanhireashutt1eservice-that,swhatwedid-orrideAmtrak9withtheirbikesbetweenSeda1iaandHernIann.凯蒂步道平坦宽阔，吸引着喜爱短途郊游的家庭和意欲长途跋涉的耐力运动员。（我处于两者之间，跃跃

14、欲试。）春、夏、秋三季，远足、跑步和骑行者会在这条砾石小径上同行；到了冬季，越野滑雪者，甚至雪橇手，也会加入进来。每隔9到10英里就有一个步道起点，由历史悠久的火车站改建而来，因此可以很方便地驱车在公园任何一处停靠，来一场短途往返骑行。单程骑手可以租用班车接送（我们就用了这一服务），或者带着自行车搭乘全国铁路客运公司在锡代利亚市和赫曼两市之间穿梭的列车。Ifyouaren,tridingorrunningtheKaty,you,rechasinganentrepreneuria1dreama1ongit.B&Bs,breweries,cafesandwineriesdotthefu111eng

15、thofthetrai1.Asdosomesurprises:Drew1emberger,anArmyveteranwhoownstheMountNeboInnnexttoMeriwether,hasworkedasariverguide,fishingguide,boat-makerandsomme1ier.ItookabreakfrommyridetojoinoneofhisMissouriRivertours.Beingonthewater（inaboatthecaptainbui1thimse1f）providedanintimacywiththeriverthatcarried1ew

16、isandC1arkthatIwou1dhavemissedonthetrai1.Somethingofanornitho1ogist,too,1embergerpointedoutpe1icans,geeseandvu1tures.Henosedustowardatreeho1dinganest.Aba1deag1esoaredabove,circ1ed,thencameinfora1anding.1embergerturnedtheboatbacktowardRocheport,andasgo1denc1ifffacespee1edpast,offeredupsomewisdomfroma1ifespentontheBigMuddy10:mNeverhangyourfishingc1othesnexttoyourtuxedo11.,如果不是在凯蒂步道上骑行或跑步，那就是在沿途追逐